![]() 05/06/2018 at 08:25 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
What do you guys think? Refinsish those wheel, replace if necessary. Get him down a bit in price?
![]() 05/06/2018 at 08:49 |
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talk him down to 3500... chuck the wheels... put some nice rays on it :p
![]() 05/06/2018 at 09:10 |
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What you said. Just look carefully for any signs of rust underneath, too.
I don’t know values on these but seems like a potentially good car.
![]() 05/06/2018 at 09:10 |
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lower it as far as possible and add stance.
![]() 05/06/2018 at 09:13 |
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Looks legit from what I can see. The only thing I would say is change out the plugs and wires with ngk. The only thing I could tell. His price seems pretty damn fair really. Especially cause it mentions a hard top. If it drives well... I support your choice to buy
![]() 05/06/2018 at 09:39 |
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That sounds like a pretty good price, and a tremendous deal if he’s got a factory hard top too. The spec miata guys long ago snapped up every hard top they could find, so any factory hard top alone is worth $1500+ these days. On the wheels, the finish on all of those particular OEM miata wheels ends up peeling. Wheel choices for a miata are basically unlimited.
Some miata things to look out for: take a look at the condition of the heater hoses, as they’re a known weak point. I wouldn’t be surprised to find them a bit spongy. Likewise, pull back the boot on the clutch slave cylinder to check for fluid leaking past the seal. These are both cheap and super easy things to fix, but are common things that need attention on a miata that make good negotiating points.
That looks the factory top, so take a good look at its condition. They usually fail either by rubbing through at contact points with the frame, cracking where the glass window attaches or where the top meets the rub rail around the back. Check for signs of water in the floor and trunk, which usually indicates a cracked rain rail, which will also mean a new top. A new miata top is around a $1000 job (that you want to write someone else a check with a smile on your face to do).
![]() 05/06/2018 at 09:52 |
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Thanks for the pointers! The add is a little unclear about the hard top, I’m assuming it doesn’t have one. I’ll make sure I look for what you mentioned before I pay for a PPI
![]() 05/06/2018 at 11:35 |
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Panasport is always the answer.
![]() 05/06/2018 at 12:12 |
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you mean watanabe right? :p
![]() 05/06/2018 at 13:14 |
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Not bad. The stock wheel are quite heavy, and you can save a lot of unsprung weight by grabbing an aftermarket set. Luckily Miata wheels are cheap too!
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Parts/Miata/Wheels-Tires.html
![]() 05/06/2018 at 14:57 |
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It was shabby, unfortunately. Also, turns out I might not fit. Leg room not an issue, but I was eye height with the top of the windshield, and it my head with the top up. How much room can be gained with different seats?
![]() 05/06/2018 at 15:04 |
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Depends. If you go fixed back bucket seat you can gain a ton of room. I got roughly 6 inches of leg room and a few inches lower with Bride seats and aftermarket brackets mounted in the stock location. Custom brackets and/or lowering the floor pan is pretty common, and can take you down another two inches or so.
It’s been awhile since I’ve compared stock vs stock but I believe the NB interior is more cramped than the NA
![]() 05/06/2018 at 15:16 |
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I might end up looking more towards NC. Stupid long torso. Just drove a second NB. This one at least got up and went, once it got past the low RPM hesitation.